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1086708 Posts in 71919 Topics- by 19221 Members - Latest Member: arcticvmanks
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1  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Bad slide on: Nov 14, 2017, 08:52AM
I can see why that would work, but what was the purpose of putting the cream on any part of the legs other than the stockings? The outer slide makes no contact there, so it seems like a waste of lube.

The way I look at it, the chrome is very slick and smooth, while the outer...isn't.  So while I am lubing the inner, my real point is to have a double sided layer of water repellent on the inners and outers, so that the water can be the "bearing" between the two.

I clean and dry my slide, put a bit on the stockings, work it onto the outers, run the slide for a minute...then take whatever is left on my fingers and put that on the rest of the inners.  I rub it in until it's warm.  At that point I'll either do long tones or if I need to move the slide quicker I'll spritz it with water.  If I misjudge the amount needed I'll wipe off the offending area.

If the leadpipe is affecting your slide, see a tech.
2  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Lubricating Linkage on: Nov 12, 2017, 08:04AM
The plastic is "self lubricating" in normal (meaning RC cars) us, but due to people not wanting to pay doubles for castenets, we put a dab of something on there...but it really doesn't matter what, grease, tuning slide lube, heavy oil, unicorn tears.  Some ball and sockets fit better than others and as they wear they might benefit from a heavier lube like grease.

Nothing I'd worry about, been using them for decades.
3  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Instruments / Re: Custom horn with no budget (not sure if this belongs here) on: Nov 02, 2017, 12:29AM
Anyone can build you a custom trombone. They could build a slide super light, a bell extra heavy, a beryllium leadpipe, a waterkey that no one's ever heard of, a valve that uses infared to read the chart and knows when to open and close...

What would serve most folks better is to come to a maker and say,"I play X but I like this about Y and this about Z...and I really like the sound that the principal from the Pacoima symphony makes..."  Those things all help someone make something that fits what a player wants/needs.

Many years ago I worked at a small music store.  A guy wanted some Ukulele strings...he let it be known that he was the best Jazz ukulele player in the world.  We started talking and he'd had a custom ukulele made in Hawaii by the best ukulele maker.  The maker asked what he wanted it made from Bubinga, Mahogany, Koa...and he asked what the brightest was...Spruce.  So he asked to make it out of spruce.  The maker tried to tell him just the body should be made from spruce, but the player insisted EVERYTHING should be made of spruce.  I told him that wouldn't work, you need a harder fretboard, stronger neck and headstock...He said, yeah you're right, very expensive shiny useless instrument.

Good luck!
4  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Vintage Conn's slide drags when cold! on: Oct 31, 2017, 06:30AM
Warm up before the gig?
5  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Bach Strad silver tube material? on: Oct 18, 2017, 04:10PM
We call it nickel, however it's actually a brass alloy, 15% nickel, 70%(+-)copper, the rest zinc.

Harder than standard brass, more corrosian resistant, a bit more brittle.
6  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Ball and socket from string on: Oct 14, 2017, 06:46AM
7  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Minimal bracing & structural integrity? on: Oct 13, 2017, 07:38AM
Bracing and connections make a huge difference.  IMO it's not what's right, but what's right for the player.  25 years ago I lightened slides weekly, today it's pretty rare.  People used to ask if I could take off ALL the braces...now they ask more about which one does what.  It's a balancing act. 

Structurally it's also a balancing act.  Given that no instrument with an F attachment should march, your use should be taken into account...tailored to a specific hall, freelance, gigbag, dancing, pit, air travel,...all should give you pause when you consider an specific design.

8  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: The physics of bell bending. on: Oct 04, 2017, 07:37AM
Metal bending is like women...mysterious at best.  A small percentage of the time the deformation will go back without visible distortion.  On thin material like slides it can bow the entire tube.  On heavy material it's better and on items like bells you may deform the original shape, but be able to fool the eye by make it symetrical.

 I had a tuning slide that wasn't replaceable that was crushed.  Way too much time later I had it back into shape as far as the outside taper and bend...but it was 1/2" taller... the entire bell was apart anyway and now he had much better slide clearance Don't know

RE the bent TRUMPET , use a mandrel to support the inside bore and a burnisher or roller to coax it back to shape...it may be a 3 handed operation.
9  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: What to do with old parts on: Sep 29, 2017, 06:39AM
When I get spare parts that belong to a customer ( maybe an F wrap) I'll offer them back.  Some folk really want them others don't care.  Others want me to keep them, but it' still theirs...but I can use the parts if I need to.

When I was younger I was greedy for parts, now I look for opportunities to make the clutter go away.
10  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / valve stem for St Petersberg Marching Baritone. on: Sep 28, 2017, 01:57PM
Anyone know a replacement for a St petersberg (Tuba Exchange) marching Baritone?  Damned aluminum valve stem rotted

11  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Long term storage of the trombone on: Sep 25, 2017, 06:43AM
Give your instrument a bath, dry thoroughly, Lube the tuning slides and leave out a bit, lube the F valve, do not lube the slide.  The case stink is from what's in the horn...if it's clean then there's nothing to stink.
12  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / MOVED: Airy Tone on: Sep 20, 2017, 08:20AM
This topic has been moved to practice room...nothing to do with repairs or maintenance.Practice Room.

13  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Accessories / Re: Stearn's law of leadpipes on: Sep 05, 2017, 07:36AM
Chris, I am going to disagree about how the front of the horn is more important than the back.  I find that most players have a point in the horn that is the #1 thing that makes the horn work for them...maybe the mpc, the leadpipe, slide crook (shape and bore size), neckpipe and valves, tuning slide, bell throat and bell flare.  I think the players input matches the reflection at those points and that returns to the players the information they need.

Many are very mouthpiece sensitive...but the rest is just a megaphone.  I think leadpipes are confusing because many people expect that to fix...everything.  When it doesn't the seach for the holy grail continues while the really wanted a different crook...or something.

Except for the PDQ Bach types, no one plays just a leadpipe.  The trombone is either a complex system that requires fine tuning, or a compact chromatic funnel. If you have messed with 20 leadpipes and not found the winner, it's probably something else.
14  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Hand rest solutions that have least impact on response on: Aug 12, 2017, 05:22AM
Snide answer: Learn to hold theh thing so you don't need those crutches.

Less snide answer: Get a Holton TR-150, older King 4B-F, or Olds Opera so you have the brace "built in" (you hold it around the bell brace).

Anything else you do will change the response to some extent.  Some things more than others.  If you need the brace, be prepared to deal with the change of response.

Equally snide response...moving the bell brace also affects response and possible wrapping your hand around the bell brace may dampen vibrations also.

My advise as always, fit the horn to your hand, then worry about crutches.

See your tech.  He should make the lever fit YOUR hand.
15  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: YSL8820 Xeno Water Key Cork Size? on: Jul 22, 2017, 08:28AM
I suggest a chardonay or Rheisling...darker wine leave a stain on the cork.
16  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Getzen/Edward bass trombone tuning slide on: Jul 22, 2017, 08:26AM
I found one .02" per 1/2 inch...made a tapered die to go in my expander...
17  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Getzen/Edward bass trombone tuning slide on: Jul 21, 2017, 09:13AM
Does anyone have a Edwards/Getzen bass trombone tuning slide and some calipers laying around?  I need to measure the taper...inside diameter at the very and and again 1/2 inside.

I'm making a tool to expand them to fit properly :D

18  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Sudden Change in Shires Slide on: Jul 11, 2017, 12:48PM
Steam might become an issue (over 212), but hot water should not affect the metal.

Talk to your retailer.
19  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: How to lube my 2nd valve? on: Jul 08, 2017, 07:23AM
(In my best Dennis Hopper/Christopher Walken voice): Just what are you saying here John?

That taking a valve apart isn't anything to be afraid of.  I spent the week following ITF at the Porkorny seminar.  One theme that reoccured was that many players had the chops and skills to play something difficult but overthought/analyzed until they couldn't.  I see the same thing here, a simple 200 year old mechanical device that is serviceable with a flathead screwdriver and a small mallet....but we'd rather trust it to professionals or find silly end arounds.
20  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: How to lube my 2nd valve? on: Jul 07, 2017, 06:13AM
Normally, I wouldn't think that taking apart the rotor would be a normal part of routine lubrication. It's not designed to come apart as easily as an axial flow valve, and the tolerances are usually tighter. I don't think I've ever pulled apart a rotor.

Anyway, pull out the entire D crook, and oil it that way. You could take off the tuning slide from the crook, but that would make it take even longer.
I would disassemble the rotor, clean, dry lube and reassemble.  I showed a little girl how to do it yesterday, no problem...I just asked her if she was smarter than a horn player :D

They are just as easy as a an axial and are a looser tolerance for the most part, the big difference is the press fit rear cap.
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