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1080009 Posts in 71453 Topics- by 19045 Members - Latest Member: Old2TheBone
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1  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Risks with Removing a Bell on: May 10, 2015, 04:08PM
Thank you all for your posts. I played the Mt. Vernon 50B in the orchestra for a week and loved the sound but the horn was flat even with both tuning slides pushed in, I didn't like the stuffiness of the valve, and I found that with the original slide the horn lacked clarity. If the whole horn was great I would have kept it all original and used it for small horn rep such as Haydn and Mozart, but the small bass trombone setup I already have for that kind of rep was better overall than the 50B. After seeing the posts here, speaking with several techs on this matter, and getting some great advice from Harold Van Schaik I decided to have the Mt. Vernon bell mounted onto my Shires valve section and have the Mt. Vernon tuning slide converted so that I could use it with the Shires valves as well. I had the 50 bell unsoldered and Shires mounting hardware attached and had the Bach lower tuning slide tube (male) unsoldered and a Shires lower tuning outer slide tube (female) and outer tube to crook ferrule soldered to the 50 tuning slide crook and brace. Both conversions required no trimming of any of the Bach parts nor any alteration to the tuning slide crook and the only parts buffed were the small spots where the solder from the original braces was. Both the tuning slide and bell are raw brass so no lacquering was needed either. I could not be happier with the result, the sound is incredibly resonant and beautiful with tons of core and it projects very well in the orchestra. The gorgeous sound of the Mt. Vernon bell and tuning slide combined with the clarity and ease of playing of the Shires valve section and Edwards handslide make this setup one of the best I've ever played and definitely the best horn I've ever owned, I foresee using this setup as my main axe for decades to come. Multiple colleagues remarked on how great the sound of this horn was as well. Now I know why everybody wants a vintage Bach bell, the sound is incredible!

2  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: Risks with Removing a Bell on: Apr 15, 2015, 04:17AM
Thank you all for your input. I am still deciding the best course of action. All of your input, especially from some of the great techs we have on the forum, is greatly appreciated.
3  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Risks with Removing a Bell on: Apr 10, 2015, 11:18AM
I just acquired a 1958 Mt. Vernon Bach 50B and I am in love with the sound and resonance of this horn. I am strongly considering having the bell removed and Shires mounts put on it so that I may use it on my main setup. When I play the Mt. Vernon bell section with my Shires slide it sounds wonderful, so I'm hoping that having the bell put on my Shires valves will maintain the same resonant sound as occurs with the Mt. Vernon bell section and my slide but give me the openness and benefits of independent axial flow valves. I don't think that I could use the Mt. Vernon horn as it is now as my main horn in the orchestra as the valve is somewhat stuffy, I prefer the blow and sound of dual bore slides, and having one valve limits options in the middle and low register. I know that a lot of people have had Mt. Vernon or New York Bach bells put on modern valve sections to get the sound of the vintage Bach bells but with the functionality of a modern valve section, but I want to weigh the potential risks before going through with this. What are some of the risks involved with having a bell unsoldered and having different bell mounting hardware put on it? By risks I mean the potential that the process of removing a bell and the exposure to heat and buffing away the old solder involved could permanently hinder the playing characteristics, resonance, and sound of the bell itself. The Mt. Vernon bell is unlacquered and I will keep it that way and never have it buffed or polished, so the bell transition process wouldn't involve any lacquer removal or relacquering and would thus only involve unsoldering the bell from the three braces that connect it to the original valve section, unsoldering the original tuning slide receiver, lightly buffing the old solder off of the parts of the bell where the original braces and tuning slide receiver were attached, and soldering on the Shires tuning slide receiver and front bell brace mounting hardware. We have a excellent tech here in Charlotte (Jon Mills) that would do the work. He has mounted a 50BG bell for me before and did an excellent job so I trust that he would do good work if I did this with the Mt. Vernon bell. I appreciate any input or experiences that people have with removing and remounting bells and if they were happy with the outcome or regretted doing it in the first place. Thank you for any replies.
4  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Technicians for Custom Valve Levers on: Nov 22, 2014, 10:05PM
I have a new independent bass axial valve section that I would like to have custom valve levers (not just the finger paddle but the whole valve arm) and springs put on. I love the way the valves play but I would like a lighter action. I'm fine with the length of the throw on the valves, I just wish that the finger pressure needed to engage each valve was less and that the valves moved faster with less effort. A technician who saw the valve section commented that the stock valve arms are pretty inefficient and could be better. I will keep the brand of valve section quiet since it is a great maker and I don't want it to seem like I'm not satisfied with the work this fine company is doing. I have custom valve levers on my old Orla Thayer valve section that were made by Roy Lawler decades ago, and I love how light and easy the action is (some of this can be attributed to the fact that the valve cores are anodized aluminum). Lawler doesn't seem to be doing much in the way of trombones these days, so I'm looking for a different technician that might be able to make custom valve levers. I'm hoping that new valve levers and lighter springs would lighten the action. Any recommendations for technicians that might be able to do this modification? I will inquire with Chuck McAlexander and Wayne Tanabe but I'm interested in other recommendations as well just to have a few options in mind. Thanks for any recommendations.
5  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Re: The most recommended trombone techs on: Oct 22, 2014, 02:04PM
Any recommendations for repair techs that can do modification work in the Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia region of the country? I am in Charlotte, NC and need to have a bell flare mounted on a valve section. Although this is somewhat simple of an installation process I want to make sure it's done precisely, so I'm willing to drive out of state to get it done well. Right now I'm considering Rich Ita's Brass Instrument Workshop in Marietta, GA (just outside of Atlanta), anybody had work done by him? Also I saw this post from a couple of years ago:


Anybody know if Tyson Brassworks is still around? There is no information on the company online, it would appear to be closed.

Thanks for any leads.
6  Creation and Performance / Musical Miscellany / Re: Temporarily Soundproofing an Existing Room on: Aug 26, 2014, 05:52PM
Scott - hope the move went well!!

Do you have a roommate to worry about, or is your pad part of a duplex / town home / complex of some sort?

Is there a basement available?

Tell us more about the space you are going to use. It might help spawn ideas...

Thanks for your message Tom. I do indeed have a roommate (a musician). There is no basement in the house. The bedroom that I practice in is fortunately on the opposite side of the house from my roommate, but I still hope to reduce the sound transmission as I often use drones and that in combination with my playing can be pretty loud.

The room is 10x11.5 feet with one window in the center of one wall and one door in an opposite corner of the room. There is a small closet with a wooden sliding door. The floor is carpeted.
7  Creation and Performance / Musical Miscellany / Temporarily Soundproofing an Existing Room on: Aug 22, 2014, 08:05PM
I am moving into a house soon and I am hoping to somehow insulate the inside of the bedroom that I will be using as a practice studio to reduce the amount of sound that will escape from my practicing into the rest of the house. I am looking for methods and materials to use that reduce sound transmission as much as possible but a big problem is that I cannot alter the existing drywall, floorboards, ceiling, etc in the practice room as I am renting the house. Is there anything that I can do that will noticeably reduce the transmission of sound from my practice room through the rest of the house that doesn't involve any permanent changes to the room and is relatively affordable (less than $1000, preferably closer to $500 or less) to do in a small (10' x 12') room? I have done a fair bit of research on sound insulation but there is little information out there about methods of sound insulation that are easily removable and don't involve invasive actions such as gluing acoustical foam to the walls or tearing out the existing drywall. Any help or recommendations of places to explore to do further research on this is greatly appreciated.
8  Horns, Gear, and Equipment / Repairs, Modifications and Maintenance / Edwards handslide into Shires valves on: Mar 28, 2014, 10:39PM
I am finishing up assembling my new setup, but I have realized that I will have a problem with my Edwards slide being compatible with Shires valves. I have an Edwards dual bore bass trombone slide and will soon be receiving a Shires independent axial flow bass valve section. The problem is that when my Edwards slide is screwed into the slide receiver on a Shires valve section the slide is still loose in the receiver and when you put the horn up to play the weight of the valve section causes it to fall over since the slide is not tight enough in the receiver. The threads on the slide receiver nut seem to screw onto the top of the Edwards slide no problem, so this doesn't seem to be the issue. It seems that the slide receiver on the Shires valves (essentially the female end) is bigger and has a different taper than the top of the Edwards slide (the male end) that goes into the slide receiver (what is this part called?), so there is not enough surface friction pushing on the outside of the top of the handslide for the slide to stay in place in the receiver. It seems that there are 2 possible solutions for this problem in compatibility:

1. Unsolder the slide receiver tube and slide receiver lock ring from the Shires valve section and replace them with an Edwards slide receiver and nut


2. Unsolder the top part of the Edwards slide (that has the outward facing threads and conical male part that goes into the slide receiver) and replace it with a Shires threaded part

It seems that option 1 may be easier because it is simple to solder and unsolder these parts. After speaking with Edwards I also know that they will sell the slide receiver assembly to me. I would prefer to do option 2 though, as I would like to avoid modifying this brand new valve section and making it incompatible with Shires slides. I would prefer to modify the slide and keep the valves as they are. I have not gotten confident answers from my repair man or Edwards on if this (option 2) would be practical though, as neither is sure if the Shires part (for the top of the slide) would match the tubes on the .578" end of the Edwards slide and be able to be soldered into the Edwards slide, especially since the lower slide tube runs the whole length from the top of the slide cone to the end of the stockings on Edwards slides. Does anybody have experience with something like this or are familiar enough with Shires and Edwards designs to be able to tell me if this modification is feasible? I would like to go this route if it isn't wildly complicated or might destroy the slide. I really love this slide and want to continue using it as my main slide once I get my new valves, so one of these modifications will be necessary. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
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