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Author Topic: AR Resonance Mouthpieces  (Read 9717 times)
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BGuttman
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« Reply #80 on: Dec 25, 2017, 02:30PM »

Tomorrow Iím traveling back to the USA to visit family and will be dragging my horn along so I can tryout an AR mouthpiece.

Since itís been a good long time since Iíve messed around with different pieces, let alone changing parts, I thought Iíd ask if any of you have ideas on how to go about that. Do I warm up on what Iíve been using and then start trying the new bits?

Any advice is welcome and seasons greatings to all,

John
I'm sure Luke will help you get fitted.

Basically, start with what you use now and identify what you'd like to do better.  Then Luke can see if a change of backbore (or even cup) will help.

Good luck.
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Bruce Guttman
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DaveAshley

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« Reply #81 on: Dec 26, 2017, 03:35AM »

Just a tip for anyone with an AR - It might be a good idea to put a little oil in the threads of the cup-backbore connection.  I'm wishing I had done this.  Right now, mine is stuck together and I can't seem to get the two pieces separated. If all else fails, I'll see if I can get someone at Landress Brass to fix it when my ship gets to NY in a few weeks.
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« Reply #82 on: Dec 26, 2017, 05:28AM »

Hello Dave!
Unfortunately oil or grease won't help, I've tried all kinds of tricks and asked a few well known friends who make threaded mouthpieces, they always get stuck if you screw them good.
At the same time there's an easy fix, just get two pieces of THICK rubber and a plier. Bite on the backbore with the plier and hold the top with the hand, it will unscrew very easily.
Rubber is important both because you don't want to mark the mouthpiece and because it will help gripping on the mouthpiece. Trying with bare hands it simply impossible.
Let me know if it works!
Merry Christmas! (I'm late, I know... :) )
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Matt K

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« Reply #83 on: Dec 26, 2017, 06:17AM »

I use teflon tape on my threads. Not sure if the tolerances will work on these pieces but they work well on my DE pieces.
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« Reply #84 on: Dec 26, 2017, 06:32AM »

Just a tip for anyone with an AR - It might be a good idea to put a little oil in the threads of the cup-backbore connection.  I'm wishing I had done this.  Right now, mine is stuck together and I can't seem to get the two pieces separated. If all else fails, I'll see if I can get someone at Landress Brass to fix it when my ship gets to NY in a few weeks.
====

That happened to mine and I did what Antonio suggested I do. A good pair of pliers with some rubber. Bingo, off it came. I used rubber from an old bicycle inner tube I had lying around. After that I put a drop of liquid wrench brand penetrating oil on the threads and it has helped.

------
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« Reply #85 on: Dec 27, 2017, 01:22AM »

Will there be a booth for these at ITF?
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AR Resonance
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« Reply #86 on: Dec 27, 2017, 11:44AM »

I'll try! :)
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john jenkins

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« Reply #87 on: Dec 27, 2017, 12:17PM »

I also use a silicone-coated oven mitt on each hand which provides me with enough grip around the rim and backbore.  :D Teflon tape works well, too, as Matt K. suggested.
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griffinben

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« Reply #88 on: Dec 29, 2017, 06:22AM »

Hmmmm...I'm using a 46 11 shank on the C and it's still not as good below middle Bb as I need. Even my NY 11C is better down there, as are of course the NY Clarke S and Mt. Vernon 6.5A too.

S.

Hi Sam, I wonder if mouthpiece insertion depth would solve that.  I little teflon to back it out a smidge.
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Pre59

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« Reply #89 on: Dec 29, 2017, 08:22AM »

Hi Sam, I wonder if mouthpiece insertion depth would solve that.  I little teflon to back it out a smidge.

Isn't a restricted lower range an inevitable outcome of a V shaped 'piece, hence the V/Cup that makers like Marc produce. My Marc 11 was in that mould.
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« Reply #90 on: Dec 29, 2017, 09:22AM »

Isn't a restricted lower range an inevitable outcome of a V shaped 'piece, hence the V/Cup that makers like Marc produce. My Marc 11 was in that mould.

I haven't ever found this to be the case. There's so many other variable that could explain it, but in general, a V shaped cup does not restrict low range.   
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sabutin

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« Reply #91 on: Dec 29, 2017, 04:59PM »

Hi Sam, I wonder if mouthpiece insertion depth would solve that.  I little teflon to back it out a smidge.

I've messed with it, Ben. The whole m'pce is a little longer than the ones I am used to playing, so backing the m'pce out a little is pretty much not an option...too flat for my extended 1st position preferences. And...since I am not going to take down the shanks on m'pces I have on spec or mess with my leadpipes, putting it in further won't work either.

The dues of equipment search... :-0 :-0 :-0 Hi Hi Amazed

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« Reply #92 on: Dec 30, 2017, 05:26AM »

I haven't ever found this to be the case. There's so many other variable that could explain it, but in general, a V shaped cup does not restrict low range.   

Apart from the modular nature of these 'pieces, the 2 main differences (as far as I can tell) are, a angular edge to the throat horizon and a V profile. My own experience with V cups has been with some early Jet Tones and Giardinelli 5Ds'. I always had to go with a wider model to restore the lower register.
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« Reply #93 on: Jan 03, 2018, 08:51PM »

Alan Kaplan has a signature model now.

https://www.facebook.com/arresonancesrl/posts/431678343914448
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« Reply #94 on: Jan 06, 2018, 06:41AM »

I know this is still a bit in the future but we are planning on attending the ITF in July. I will keep you updated as we solidify our plans but this will be a great place to try out everything if you are planning on attending. Since itís only a few hours from Chicago it would be an easy drive so weíre planing on making it happen.
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« Reply #95 on: Jan 07, 2018, 01:46AM »

After reading here, I recently became an owner of one of these mouthpieces. I havenít been one to experiment with mouthpieces so I felt it was time to try something new. This also corresponds with changing my ideal sound and what my goals are now.

Just for some background, Iíve been using a 6 1/2 AL rim screwed onto and 11C cup for my Rath R10 .500 bore. I have also tried a Monette but never liked it.

When I first received both a 24.1 and a 24.4 cups from Luke, I immediately appreciated the ease. However, I found that my articulations were less clear and I fatigued faster than I should. Each time I played, things got better and easier. I think I really needed to make some changes in the way I have been playing and needed to make a transition to the new mouthpiece.

The piece I had been using feels much deeper that the AR top and I think the old one was too deep. I was doing some kind of movements in order to get the older setup to work. With the AR, large intervals and the high range because much easier. It also seems like the response is much more immediate. There were three shanks to try, 60/40/10.5, 43 and 46. I gravitated towards the bigger shank and had almost decided on the 10/46 shank but inadvertently tried the 43 a day later, finding it to be a great setup.

In addition to them being great mouthpieces, Luke who sells them was very helpful and gave me good ideas on how to tryout the new pieces.

My next project will be to try a V+ top on my .525 bore hone.  If you can, give them a fair try and know that you may have picked up some useless habits and may need to replace them with others.

Tanks to all who posted here,
John Tarr
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« Reply #96 on: Jan 08, 2018, 12:45PM »

Totally blown away....... Thank you to the folk on here for bringing Antonios work to our attention and congratulations on an amazing product  Sing it!

Chris this is not the first time we've heard this!  :)
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« Reply #97 on: Jan 08, 2018, 02:24PM »

Chris this is not the first time we've heard this!  :)


Ahh ! He just gets very keen..... on occasions.....

Chris Stearn
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« Reply #98 on: Jan 08, 2018, 02:59PM »

Ahh ! He just gets very keen..... on occasions.....

Chris Stearn

Still loving it  Pant :D
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BGuttman
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« Reply #99 on: Jan 08, 2018, 03:13PM »

How does it work with the Inderbinen trombone? Evil Evil

(Note to self: wish I had remembered this for the kid who had the scholarship to buy a new trombone.)
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Bruce Guttman
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