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Author Topic: Slide issue  (Read 708 times)
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Piano man
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« on: Jul 19, 2017, 07:52PM »

I just bought (on impulse) an 11-year-old Jupiter tenor, for $30. I felt okay because it came with a perfect Bach 6 1/2 AL.

The horn plays quite nicely. I made sure the slide moved freely but wasn't very thorough. When I got it home, I noticed it doesn't slide easily out of first position. From just past second or so down, it'll slide at a fairly shallow angle by gravity, but from the closed position it hangs vertically.

I tried it one tube at a time, and it's just the upper tube. The inners look great, and I couldn't find a mark on the outer to correspond to where it would hit the stocking when it hangs up.

What gives? Is this an alignment issue? It's like a good slide, except in first position. Maybe I'll use it to work on alternate slide positions.
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Doug Elliott
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« Reply #1 on: Jul 19, 2017, 08:22PM »

Could be corrosion, or out of round at or near the ferrule at the end crook, or possibly excess solder at that joint.  The end crook probably needs to come off to investigate it.  It sounds like something is grabbing the stocking down in that area, in 1st position.
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BGuttman
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« Reply #2 on: Jul 19, 2017, 08:49PM »

If somebody removed the slide bumpers you may be coming to a very "sharp" 1st position and the end of the slide is entering the crook.  Just something to check for.

Could be the previous user didn't tune it fully closed in 1st and never noticed a problem.
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« Reply #3 on: Jul 19, 2017, 09:53PM »

Sounds just like a dented cork barrel.
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« Reply #4 on: Jul 19, 2017, 11:07PM »

Time to bring the slide to a good tech.  This will increase your investment above the $30 mark, but you may end up with a fine trombone - as well as a "perfect" Bach 6ŻAL! 
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« Reply #5 on: Jul 19, 2017, 11:48PM »

If it's grabbing from 1st to around 2nd and only on the top tube, then I'd be looking for a dent about 3 inches or so from the crook ferrule of the top outer tube.
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« Reply #6 on: Jul 20, 2017, 07:57AM »

I had an old Bundy that behaved like that.  It turned out to be build-up of old slide cream at the bottom of the outers near the crook and/or soft corrosion.  A tech gave it a ultrasonic chem-clean and it was right as rain after that.

I guess one previous owner never swabbed the thing out and just kept re-applying cream. Don't know
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« Reply #7 on: Jul 21, 2017, 06:56PM »

I like the idea that it might be gunk-related. Maybe I'll soak it overnight then swab it out, and if that doesn't work I'll take it to a shop. It came with Slide-o-Mix, and the guy said the horn hadn't been used for awhile (he switched to bass trombone, then drums, then medicine).

I tried the 'bad' outer on the bottom inner, and the result was a little weird. Whereas the slide is usually a little scrape-y and slow at the top, when you put the top on the bottom there's a definite catch to it, like a dent, but I can't see one.

What's the deal with Jupiter trombones?  I bought it basically because it was a free trombone with a perfect 6 1/2 AL mouthpiece. This one plays very nicely. There's little engraving on it other than the brand name, but lots of nice nickel trim and the build quality looks really nice. Are Jupiter trombones good?

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BillO
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« Reply #8 on: Jul 21, 2017, 08:15PM »

What's the deal with Jupiter trombones?  I bought it basically because it was a free trombone with a perfect 6 1/2 AL mouthpiece. This one plays very nicely. There's little engraving on it other than the brand name, but lots of nice nickel trim and the build quality looks really nice. Are Jupiter trombones good?
I'm not sure PM.  I have two XO Brass horns by the same company that make Jupiter, and they are really top notch.  No joke.  There is a 3rd horn i'm interested in (the 1236RL-O) which I've had a toot or two on and it's a better horn than my Shires.  I hope to add it to my stable soon.  The build quality on the XO Brass series is second to none. 

My niece had a Jupiter 432 and I played it dozens of times.  Just as sweet as the Yamaha 354.  Great fat sound, well built and had a outrageously good slide.

A band member in one of the bands I play with has a Jupiter 536L - this is a .525 with 'F'.  It looks like a Yamaha YSL-446 but plays with more color and character.  A truly splendid trombone.

My guess is they don't yet have the cache to play in the 'Name Game'.  If enough real trombonists put their 'established brand' prejudice aside for a while, I think Jupiter, and their other brands,  could carve a very nice slice of the pie for themselves.

Meanwhile, I get to play some of the best trombones made for chump change.  I just hope I can finagle that 1236RL-O I want before the secret gets out.
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« Reply #9 on: Jul 22, 2017, 07:56AM »

My "The Elkhart" (pre-Buescher) has the same problem. It even clicks into place when you bring it all the way in. Like you, I got the horn for about $20 from my grandpa (what he paid for it at a garage sale). The horn's like 90 years old so I never really bothered to figure out why, figured the felts in the cork barrel were shot or gone and impossible to replace anyway. Now I'm wondering if it might be excess solder or something because there are a couple other spots on the horn where that's an issue.
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« Reply #10 on: Jul 22, 2017, 09:07AM »

Inner slide tube spacing can cause this. In extended positions, the tubes are able to flex and compensate for the misalignment. In 1st, there's no room for flex.

Put the slide in 7th position and measure the distance between the inner legs, just behind the stockings. Then, keeping the slide extended, measure the distance just past the cork barrels. Then lay the inners out on a countertop and see if one side is higher than the other.  Either of these conditions can have the effect you describe.
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