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Author Topic: Ball and socket from string  (Read 698 times)
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jbeckett

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« on: Oct 12, 2017, 08:55PM »

Looking to modify my 290 with a ball and socket linkage instead of keeping the string. Any suggestions of what to use or where to procure such Hardware?
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« Reply #1 on: Oct 12, 2017, 09:17PM »

This is what I use:

https://www.dubro.com/collections/ball-links/products/2-56-threaded-ball-link


But I really prefer the string linkage!  Quiet, quick & easy to replace the string if necessary!!



Eric
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« Reply #2 on: Oct 13, 2017, 01:10AM »

A lot more than just procuring the hardware. You have to reverse the stop arms, modify the levers, drill tiny holes and tap them to accept the threads for the ball links. If you don't know how to do all that, just have a tech do it for you. It isn't really that expensive.
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jbeckett

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« Reply #3 on: Oct 13, 2017, 04:16AM »

I’ve done it before on a tenor Benge that I had in the 90’s. It wasn’t that bad. I had someone recommend going to a “remote control car store” for the linkage. That was an interesting conversation. Couldn’t find anything on the web. Thanks for the help gents!
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« Reply #4 on: Oct 13, 2017, 04:19AM »

Eric, as far as joining the two sockets, should I just buy some 2-56 threaded rod and cut it to length?
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« Reply #5 on: Oct 13, 2017, 07:58AM »


But I really prefer the string linkage!  Quiet, quick & easy to replace the string if necessary!!

Me too, but now I have it only on my Blessing.  Do they have kits to go from linkage to string?
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« Reply #6 on: Oct 14, 2017, 06:46AM »

no...
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« Reply #7 on: Oct 14, 2017, 09:00AM »

Eric, as far as joining the two sockets, should I just buy some 2-56 threaded rod and cut it to length?

I would go with a slightly heavier 3-48 rod.

But I use 1/8" hex steel cut to length & thread the ends,  a little cleaner look.



Eric
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« Reply #8 on: Oct 14, 2017, 02:39PM »

You could make the threaded rod look nicer by putting some heat shrink tubing over the threads you don't need.  And you can get some cool colors Good!
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« Reply #9 on: Oct 16, 2017, 08:45AM »

i feel extremely privileged to have all of these minds in the repair/mod/service world comment on this. 
Bruce: colors? I'm more of a metallic type of guy.

Most likely going to live and let live on this. if the string fails, I can always re string. plus the replacement part world is all but gone for Benge unless you can call chuck ward, like i did, for the last Benge bass cork barrel known to man. The only thing I would really do now is make the leadpipe removable to sub in a few that I would like to test.  other than that, I'm leaving her alone.

Jeff
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« Reply #10 on: Oct 16, 2017, 09:31AM »

i feel extremely privileged to have all of these minds in the repair/mod/service world comment on this. 
Bruce: colors? I'm more of a metallic type of guy.

Most likely going to live and let live on this. if the string fails, I can always re string. plus the replacement part world is all but gone for Benge unless you can call chuck ward, like i did, for the last Benge bass cork barrel known to man. The only thing I would really do now is make the leadpipe removable to sub in a few that I would like to test.  other than that, I'm leaving her alone.

Jeff

If the string breaks, be sure to check the edges of the string holes before you re-string.  They are supposed to be chamfered.  The screws that clamp them are supposed to have the edges eased also.  When both of those are done, the strings go years and years before failing.
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« Reply #11 on: Oct 16, 2017, 02:12PM »

If the string breaks, be sure to check the edges of the string holes before you re-string.  They are supposed to be chamfered.  The screws that clamp them are supposed to have the edges eased also.  When both of those are done, the strings go years and years before failing.
I bought my Benge 290 new from a local store years ago. I pretty much had to restring the stupid thing every time I played it; there was a burr in one of the holes. Tried to get the store to fix it, but finally gave up and had a ball-and-socket conversion done.
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