Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length

 
Advanced search

1060981 Posts in 70655 Topics- by 18459 Members - Latest Member: Jande
Jump to:  
The Trombone ForumHorns, Gear, and EquipmentInstruments(Moderators: tbone62, slide advantage) Shires Q&A, what would you like to know?
Pages: 1 ... 52 53 54 55 56 [57]   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: Shires Q&A, what would you like to know?  (Read 142057 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Gabe Langfur

*
Offline Offline

Location: Boston, MA, USA
Joined: Apr 9, 2000
Posts: 4875

View Profile WWW
« Reply #1120 on: Mar 18, 2017, 06:43AM »

If it helps narrow it down, it apparently used to belong to Matthew Guilford.

In that case, I know what it is. Matt used to play a Monette mouthpiece, which would bottom out in the standard flaring of the receiver at the time. That spec has changed since then and I think is no longer necessary, but the M indicates that the mouthpiece will sit a little less deep in the pipe.
Logged

Gabe Langfur
Bass Trombonist
Rhode Island Philharmonic
Vermont Symphony
Rodney Marsalis Philadelphia Big Brass

Trombone Faculty
Boston University
Kinhaven Music School
Wellesley College

S. E. Shires Artist
cigmar

*
Offline Offline

Location: New Jersey
Joined: Jun 20, 2006
Posts: 321

View Profile
« Reply #1121 on: Mar 18, 2017, 10:04AM »

Ben-

I need to replace the bumpers on my axial valve.  It's an older one, got it around the year 2000.  Can you point me in the right direction to obtaining a few.

Thanks.
Logged
Matt K

*
Offline Offline

Location:
Joined: May 6, 2010
Posts: 6510

View Profile WWW
« Reply #1122 on: Mar 18, 2017, 11:29AM »

In that case, I know what it is. Matt used to play a Monette mouthpiece, which would bottom out in the standard flaring of the receiver at the time. That spec has changed since then and I think is no longer necessary, but the M indicates that the mouthpiece will sit a little less deep in the pipe.

Excellent! I'd forgotten about that, it makes perfect sense.
Logged

What's in a name? that which we call a tenor-bass posaune
By any other name would smell as sweet;
griffinben

*
Offline Offline

Location: The Wilds of the Northeast
Joined: Jan 28, 2003
Posts: 2508

View Profile
« Reply #1123 on: Mar 20, 2017, 06:48AM »

In that case, I know what it is. Matt used to play a Monette mouthpiece, which would bottom out in the standard flaring of the receiver at the time. That spec has changed since then and I think is no longer necessary, but the M indicates that the mouthpiece will sit a little less deep in the pipe.

Thanks, Gabe!
Logged
griffinben

*
Offline Offline

Location: The Wilds of the Northeast
Joined: Jan 28, 2003
Posts: 2508

View Profile
« Reply #1124 on: Mar 20, 2017, 06:49AM »

Ben-

I need to replace the bumpers on my axial valve.  It's an older one, got it around the year 2000.  Can you point me in the right direction to obtaining a few.

Thanks.

If still in NJ I would contact your local Shires dealer, which is Dillon Music.  They should be able to help you.

Best,
Ben
Logged
cigmar

*
Offline Offline

Location: New Jersey
Joined: Jun 20, 2006
Posts: 321

View Profile
« Reply #1125 on: Mar 20, 2017, 07:39AM »

If still in NJ I would contact your local Shires dealer, which is Dillon Music.  They should be able to help you.

Best,
Ben

Will do.  Thanks Ben.

Is this a possible DIY project or should I leave it to Dillon's techs?
Logged
TNTBONE
*
Offline Offline

Location: Southern Maryland
Joined: Mar 12, 2013
Posts: 126

View Profile
« Reply #1126 on: Mar 20, 2017, 10:15AM »

Ben, my apologies if this has been covered already, but why do you prefer the dual bore valve on your Chicago model over the other Shires offerings?? Thanks, Greg
Logged
griffinben

*
Offline Offline

Location: The Wilds of the Northeast
Joined: Jan 28, 2003
Posts: 2508

View Profile
« Reply #1127 on: Mar 20, 2017, 11:40AM »

Will do.  Thanks Ben.

Is this a possible DIY project or should I leave it to Dillon's techs?

This depends on your comfort level.  The bumpers are what control the port alignment and need to be trimmed so that the valve aligns properly.  In the case of an axial, this is done by looking down the neckpipe (tuning slide side) with a flashlight to see the ports and trimming the bumpers accordingly.  There's definitely a feel to this; if not familiar it can take along time and/or you may go through a bunch of bumpers before you get it right.  I'll leave it to you if you feel comfortable or not with it.

There's a possibility that they could do this for you while you wait at the shop.  I'd contact Dillon and ask.

Ben
Logged
griffinben

*
Offline Offline

Location: The Wilds of the Northeast
Joined: Jan 28, 2003
Posts: 2508

View Profile
« Reply #1128 on: Mar 20, 2017, 11:49AM »

Ben, my apologies if this has been covered already, but why do you prefer the dual bore valve on your Chicago model over the other Shires offerings?? Thanks, Greg

I play a dual bore valve on my personal set up (Chicago with dual bore valve) and a 1.5 leadpipe.  I wanted my everyday large bore set up to be light, crisp, colorful, and quick responding.   I personally like the focus and response it brings to the horn, it feels very lithe, singing and soloistic to me.  The axial feels broader in scope to me and doesn't match well to what I use a large bore tenor for.  (FWIW, I am very interested in getting an all yellow brass set up to complement it, i.e. Vintage New York).

I need to stress that this choice reflects my personal opinion and needs, with no official byline attached to the company through it.  I try to match each horn to the individual playing it and their wants and needs, which can be different than my own.

I hope that helps. 
Ben
Logged
TNTBONE
*
Offline Offline

Location: Southern Maryland
Joined: Mar 12, 2013
Posts: 126

View Profile
« Reply #1129 on: Mar 20, 2017, 11:58AM »

Very helpful Ben.. Thank you, Greg
Logged
SilverBone
Put the Cool in "Coulisse!"

*
Offline Offline

Location: Portland, OR
Joined: Sep 16, 2006
Posts: 3688

View Profile
« Reply #1130 on: Mar 20, 2017, 10:41PM »

Something I've been wondering about for a while:

Shires bell sections have fittings that screw onto the valve section.  My Thayer valve section also has some screw fittings that attach to the upper loop of the valve section (smaller than the bell fittings).

What is the purpose of the smaller fittings?  If you disconnect them, you can't disassemble anything.
Logged

-Howard

The nastiest fellow I've known
Smashed his trombone and ruined its tone.
There's a simple excuse
For his slush pump abuse:
He was born to be bad to the bone.
HouBassTrombone

*
Offline Offline

Location: Houston, TX
Joined: Nov 19, 2008
Posts: 2657
"Just play because you love to."


View Profile
« Reply #1131 on: Mar 21, 2017, 07:44AM »

If that brace was solid then you could not disassemble the Thayer valve section... Try taking it apart without lossening that.
Logged

Why am I not practicing?????
tbathras

*
Offline Offline

Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Joined: Jul 15, 2013
Posts: 850

View Profile
« Reply #1132 on: Mar 21, 2017, 07:47AM »

Something I've been wondering about for a while:

Shires bell sections have fittings that screw onto the valve section.  My Thayer valve section also has some screw fittings that attach to the upper loop of the valve section (smaller than the bell fittings).

What is the purpose of the smaller fittings?  If you disconnect them, you can't disassemble anything.


Sounds like perhaps you haven't removed the core from the valve before? You have to loosen those connections, then unscrew the ring around the valve, then it all comes apart. (You'd also need to disconnect the lever linkage, too)
Logged

Bass Trombone
Casco Bay Wind Symphony
207 Wind Orchestra
Maine Pops Concert Band

"Remember, your trombone is not a weapon!" -Ben van Dijk
griffinben

*
Offline Offline

Location: The Wilds of the Northeast
Joined: Jan 28, 2003
Posts: 2508

View Profile
« Reply #1133 on: Mar 21, 2017, 08:34AM »

Something I've been wondering about for a while:

Shires bell sections have fittings that screw onto the valve section.  My Thayer valve section also has some screw fittings that attach to the upper loop of the valve section (smaller than the bell fittings).

What is the purpose of the smaller fittings?  If you disconnect them, you can't disassemble anything.


As Zachary (HouBassTrombone) mentioned, this is so the Axial flow valve can be taken apart for service.  The neckpipe (with accompanying tuning slide receiver and bell brace, with angle brace to upper loop of F valve tubing) is soldered onto the bearing plate. 

Sounds like perhaps you haven't removed the core from the valve before? You have to loosen those connections, then unscrew the ring around the valve, then it all comes apart. (You'd also need to disconnect the lever linkage, too)

Unless you are a professional tech we STRONGLY advise NOT taking apart our axial flow valves.  The fit of our valves is much more precise than other and/or earlier valves that needed regular attention to function.  Differences of 0.0001" can make a difference in how this valve operates.  Taking apart the valve instantly voids the warranty.  We've had to give bad news to too many well intentioned people that took their valves apart, re-assembled them and found that the action was worse or not functioning at all.  If one insists on disassembling their valve we cannot warranty the part.

The best way to keep your valve working properly is OIL.  This is true of all of our valves, but particularly so axial flow valves.  The core (rotor oil), the spindle (bearing and linkage oil), and the miniball joints (ball joint grease or similar heavy grease) all need regular attention to keep from wearing out and to flush out moisture (to prevent anything organic reacting or growing in there).  As I often say: Oil is cheap, valves are expensive. 

I hope this helps.
Logged
sfboner

*
Offline Offline

Location: SF Bay area, CA
Joined: Jan 28, 2007
Posts: 3367

View Profile
« Reply #1134 on: Mar 21, 2017, 12:01PM »

Hi Ben - I thought the recommendation was just not to remove the stop arm screw on the spindle to remove the back plate?
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 52 53 54 55 56 [57]   Go Up
Print
Jump to: