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Author Topic: Mike Olsen ball bearing rotors!  (Read 2494 times)
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Burgerbob

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« on: Jan 07, 2017, 08:03PM »

Just received some new Olsen ball bearing rotors. These are preproduction .562. He'll offer more sizes, I assume, very soon.



I'm using one for my beater 42B eventually (this is a back-burner project) when it is revamped.

The rotors are Greenhoe-sized, nice and big. I received two cores per rotor-one vented, one not. The cores run on ball bearings, just like the axials, and spin freely with no lubrication at all.

Another choice out there for a good rotor!
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Emisaumell

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« Reply #1 on: Jan 07, 2017, 08:14PM »

How much was it? Looking into putting an open wrap on my 42b
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Burgerbob

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« Reply #2 on: Jan 07, 2017, 08:16PM »

I got these at a discount (I won't just say here, not sure if I should). There's limited amounts of the pre-production valves.

I don't know what pricing will be for the production valves.
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daveyboy37

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« Reply #3 on: Jan 10, 2017, 11:49AM »

Nice! How does the service and oiling interval compare to rotors with traditional spindle bearings?  I know with the Axial Flow valve, the ceramic and later ball bearings were a pretty big change, as on a standard AF valve there really isn't a bottom bearing, but in the new design there is.
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David Sullivan
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Burgerbob

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« Reply #4 on: Jan 10, 2017, 05:51PM »

I'm not totally sure. As I said in my original post, there's nothing on them at all and they spin like a perfectly lubed and set-up rotor. I'm sure there has to be a little something in there just so they seal better, but not to make the valve move any better.
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Whitbey
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« Reply #5 on: Jan 12, 2017, 07:02AM »

I wonder if harmonic vibrations would be an issue? Age and wear might get noticeable. Design would probably fix.
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Burgerbob

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« Reply #6 on: Jan 12, 2017, 11:11AM »

I wonder if harmonic vibrations would be an issue? Age and wear might get noticeable. Design would probably fix.

What do you mean?
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boneagain
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« Reply #7 on: Jan 12, 2017, 11:16AM »

A sleeve bearing has no single point to contribute to a resonance peak.  On a ball bearing there are pivot points where the balls end up logically.  But I can't imagine any resonance being in the normal human hearing range, much less the range of frequencies most audible on trombone overtones. But, the rotor body IS kinda like a big fat string between two frets, so in theory it COULD ring...
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Dave Adams
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Burgerbob

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« Reply #8 on: Jan 12, 2017, 11:42AM »

I haven't heard of such an issue with the ball bearing axials made by the same company.
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« Reply #9 on: Jan 12, 2017, 01:03PM »

I haven't heard of such an issue with the ball bearing axials made by the same company.

I doubt it's an issue, but the "tone generating body" of an axial is quite different from that of a "traditional." 
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Dave Adams
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Burgerbob

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« Reply #10 on: Jan 12, 2017, 02:14PM »

I'm confused with what you guys are saying. Do rotors have some harmonic vibrations I'm not aware of? Or is it the ball bearings that would change it? The bearings are very small, as they would have to be in an application this small.
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john sandhagen
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« Reply #11 on: Jan 12, 2017, 02:30PM »

it seems to me that someone wondered about a theoretical question, and it's got you thinking WAY too hard.  Like worrying about the the resonance difference between cork and rubber on the rotor stops.

Relax!
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Burgerbob

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« Reply #12 on: Jan 12, 2017, 03:04PM »

it seems to me that someone wondered about a theoretical question, and it's got you thinking WAY too hard.  Like worrying about the the resonance difference between cork and rubber on the rotor stops.

Relax!

Thanks, John!
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« Reply #13 on: Jan 12, 2017, 04:32PM »

What do you mean?

I was thinking small parts that can vibrate free might.
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Burgerbob

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« Reply #14 on: Jan 12, 2017, 04:43PM »

I was thinking small parts that can vibrate free might.


The bearings are all enclosed, not free floating in the valve.
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« Reply #15 on: Jan 12, 2017, 05:10PM »

it seems to me that someone wondered about a theoretical question, and it's got you thinking WAY too hard.  Like worrying about the the resonance difference between cork and rubber on the rotor stops.

Relax!

Come on, everyone knows cork sounds better!   Sing it! Sing it! Sing it!
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« Reply #16 on: Jan 12, 2017, 05:11PM »

I was thinking small parts that can vibrate free might.


I've got a set of Olsen axials - no vibrations whatsoever.  Very smooth and fast.
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« Reply #17 on: Jan 12, 2017, 07:07PM »

it seems to me that someone wondered about a theoretical question, and it's got you thinking WAY too hard.  Like worrying about the the resonance difference between cork and rubber on the rotor stops.

Relax!

agreed!
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Dave Adams
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« Reply #18 on: Jan 12, 2017, 07:11PM »

I was thinking small parts that can vibrate free might.


Properly adjusted "loose-ball" bearings don't actually have any loose parts.  Sealed bearings actually have a carefully calculated amount of "pre-load" so they behave like optimally adjusted "loose-ball" setups.  EITHER will have less tolerance to allow rattling/buzzing than a sleeve bearing.  Sleeve bearings with ball-bearing tolerances will not turn.
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Dave Adams
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« Reply #19 on: Jan 13, 2017, 08:04PM »

Hello everyone
I was not going to post anything on this thread as I wanted to say it all in a few weeks when I introduce my newest valves . These were prototype valves that were in the evolution of development that I guess I will probably always be in . As I am a perfectionist. I am always looking for a way to improve my products or process. The bearings that I am now using are a sealed and prelubricated hybrid stainless steel outer with ceramic balls in a class 7 bearing. There are classes that range from one to nine I am told with nine being the best . The higher the class the better that the tollerances are held . Class seven is the best available bearing that I have found so far in this size. With the higher class comes more expense. But as we all know you get what you pay for. I have spun my new valve over 10000 and probably closer to 20000rpm with no oil and have recorded no wear or loss of seal. Try that with any other valve. These valves will out last all of us and much more.  Oil is needed with my valves but not for seal or wear. The oil is to fight corrosion,rinse spit ,beer, pretzels ect... That is why so far I recommend the cheap petroleum based desented kerosine oils that have been around forever. The synthetics so far seam to ad sluggishness to my valves do to their tight tollerances and the fact that the synthetics seem to thicken when mixed with saliva. I wish this were not so because the synthetics are great corrosion inhibitors. So far I have some guys using the lightest Hetmin oils. But I still have seen better performance out of the cheap stuff.
As far as my valves not playing up to your standard . I gauranty satisfaction with all my products. I will refund anyone who is not satisfied with my products. I of course cannot refund you for the techs work or extra costs . But will certainly refund my selling price. Or will work with you or your tech in any way I can to get things right.
Thanks
Mike Olsen
Instrument innovations.com
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