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Author Topic: Getzen 1052 F trigger - too "short"  (Read 706 times)
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tbathras
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« on: May 01, 2017, 01:25PM »

Any 1052 owners or techs out there combat the weirdly short F trigger?  I have small hands and even for me, the trigger ends up being actuated with the joint of my thumb, not the pad.  Very uncomfortable. The action is more a rotation than it is linear, so that makes it even worse.

Any cheap tricks or inexpensive mods?  This is my backup horn, so I'm trying to not go down the money pit hole...
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bonenick

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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2017, 01:42PM »

I believe that if you change the arm with the bal linkage with a longer one it may make your life easier. But this has to tested in order to be sure. It shouldn't be an expensive mod.
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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2017, 05:11PM »

Can you post a picture of you holding the instrument? Then we may be able to offer some suggestions.

M
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tbathras
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« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2017, 06:07PM »

Good idea  Idea!

Here is a comparison:  on the left, my Shires, which is very comfortable.  On the right, the Getzen.

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greenbean
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« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2017, 06:23PM »

The Getzen has seriously poor ergonomics!

Looks like you could replace the second trigger paddle with a short one, like the Shires or Yamaha.

For the first trigger, can you lengthen the minibal linkage to raise the trigger?  If not, you could acquire a new linkage that is longer...
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tbathras
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« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2017, 06:51PM »

For the first trigger, can you lengthen the minibal linkage to raise the trigger?  If not, you could acquire a new linkage that is longer...

I was able to back off the minbals so I got about an extra 1/4" in length on that rod - seems to have made it better, but it still feels awfully "close".  The trigger really needs to be further out I think - but that little tweak may have taken it from not really playable to playable.

Yeah, I've been thinking about about ordering a Gb paddle from Shires.
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tbathras
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« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2017, 07:05PM »

I believe that if you change the arm with the bal linkage with a longer one it may make your life easier. But this has to tested in order to be sure. It shouldn't be an expensive mod.

Took me a second, but I see you said the the same thing as greenbean.  Yeah, this has made a vast improvement - not perfect - but better for sure.
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« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2017, 07:41PM »

Try removing the Gb paddle and re-installing it upside down.

« Last Edit: May 02, 2017, 07:23AM by Woolworth » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2017, 08:13PM »

Mess around with the second paddle...

To me it looks like you're holding the horn so that F valve is all weird because you're holding the horn in a way so that you're articulating the second valve with your index figure Amazed I don't even know how you hold the horn up that way!

The proper articulation point for the Gb valve is right at the pad on your middle figure same as the Shires. You need to move it wayyyyyy up, possibly even need to get the Gb lever rod cut.

Ironically I also have small hands but when I had a 1062FDR I found the ergos to be perfect and the ergos on my Shires dependent TruBore section to be impossible to hold. I had to have my Shires modified to be able to hold it properly.
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« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2017, 02:02AM »

It looks like you use a thumbrest on your Shires. You may want to add a Bullet Brace or something similar to your Getzen?
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tbathras
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« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2017, 05:31AM »

Try removing the Gb paddle and re-installing it upside down.

Tried that, doesn't quite work for me.
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bonenick

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« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2017, 05:32AM »

Thumbrest is certainly a good idea,  but it is not likely to get the issue resolved.

I still think that testing a longer linkage rod may be a good way to go for it. Or replace the trigger itself with a different one. Personally, If I had to play a bass (that bass in particular) and had such an issue, I would try first with a longer rod, than eventually look for a trigger with a different shape or dimensions.
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tbathras
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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2017, 05:36AM »

Mess around with the second paddle...

To me it looks like you're holding the horn so that F valve is all weird because you're holding the horn in a way so that you're articulating the second valve with your index figure Amazed I don't even know how you hold the horn up that way!

The proper articulation point for the Gb valve is right at the pad on your middle figure same as the Shires. You need to move it wayyyyyy up, possibly even need to get the Gb lever rod cut.

Ironically I also have small hands but when I had a 1062FDR I found the ergos to be perfect and the ergos on my Shires dependent TruBore section to be impossible to hold. I had to have my Shires modified to be able to hold it properly.

That's not my typical grip on the Gb paddle on that horn, I was just demonstrating the F lever.  Typically the Getzen has a Rath handbrace on it (also tried a bullet brace), but it's not on the horn at the moment as I was fiddling around with it on my tenor. I just wanted to show where my thumb ends up on the F trigger.

So, we can ignore the Gb side for now - the Shires type paddle will take care of that.

I, too, had a 1062.  It was "ok" on the ergonomics.  I actually cut off the F trigger and replaced it with the thumb paddle from an 88H.  Now that was a good upgrade.
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tbathras
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« Reply #13 on: May 02, 2017, 05:39AM »

It looks like you use a thumbrest on your Shires. You may want to add a Bullet Brace or something similar to your Getzen?

Yes - have both an ax handle and a rath hand brace (also tried my Hagmann).  My thumb ends up in the same place no matter what support I use.  Either the ax handle or the Rath will end up living on this horn, still working out which one is more comfortable.

On a side note, I usually have a Hagmann support on my Shires, but I'm trying out the Shires thumbrest.  Each seem to have their own pros and cons.
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tbathras
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« Reply #14 on: May 02, 2017, 05:42AM »

Thumbrest is certainly a good idea,  but it is not likely to get the issue resolved.

I still think that testing a longer linkage rod may be a good way to go for it. Or replace the trigger itself with a different one. Personally, If I had to play a bass (that bass in particular) and had such an issue, I would try first with a longer rod, than eventually look for a trigger with a different shape or dimensions.

Yeah, I think  you and greenbean are on to it with making that rod longer.  Today when I have a chance I'm going to try to measure what the optimal rod length would be so  the opposite end of the linkage doesn't hit the back of my hand and the lever is the furthest out on its arc.
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