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Author Topic: Tuxedo Jackets  (Read 820 times)
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johnstad

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« on: May 12, 2017, 03:44PM »

Hello Everybody-

Got hired for a outdoor summer gig and need a white jacket.  Anyone have a favorite site to purchase white tuxedo jackets?

Thanks in advance-

John
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« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2017, 05:20PM »

Mr. Formal clearance outlet on 7th?
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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2017, 06:46PM »

Goodwill?

I haven't needed or had one for years but I know the last one I had I got used.
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« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2017, 10:46PM »

Ditto to what Doug said, although I do need one occasionally. Many formal wear stores have used jackets, etc. and the best time to find that stuff is late spring (just after prom season), and early fall (just after wedding season).

If you are wanting a new coat, there used to be a mail order company that advertised in the International Musicians paper (Union publication). Not sure if the ads are still there, but I would assume someone in the office there would recall the company. As I remember, I checked out the website about a year ago, and the prices were not bad.

Formal wear has become harder to find in recent years - there used to be more local stores carrying tuxes, etc. I guess less people are wearing these things for formal occasions. You can still find black tuxes in high end Men's clothing stores, but tails and white jackets are not that common.

Good luck.

Jim Scott
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« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2017, 04:01AM »

Internet is your friend! Several eBay stores buy in bulk from rental shops (usually the previous year's designer collections that are now "outdated", or when a shop closes and clears everything). Got $1200+ tuxedo jackets and tails for 50-60 bucks each that way.

There is such an eBay store called MonkeySuits that usually has a pretty large selection, and I have always received great service dealing with them.
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Maximilien Brisson
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« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2017, 04:47AM »

There is such an eBay store called MonkeySuits that usually has a pretty large selection, and I have always received great service dealing with them.
+1 for MonkeySuits. I got barely used Oscar de la Renta tails for around $40! And as Maximilien said, great customer service; Your questions will be quickly answered.
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« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2017, 04:55AM »

eBay
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« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2017, 05:51PM »

I went to a tux shop that rents. Buy the old stuff.
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johnstad

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« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2017, 05:00PM »

Thank you everyone. At a 50 XLong, my choices are slim. The local place here in Portland (Mr Formal Outlet) is out. Monkey Suits here I come!
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« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2017, 07:21PM »

Although not immediately relevant, the bespoke suit tailors are the next industry Amazon is planning to run out of business.

They have filed a patent for a system to turn your measurements into a suit (or tux, I presume) with low turn-around times.

Instant suits (almost)!



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« Reply #10 on: May 15, 2017, 07:24PM »

If budget made-to-measure suits had any potential to run bespoke tailoring out of business, they would have disappeared last decade.
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« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2017, 07:35PM »

I would bet something very similar must have been said right about 5 minutes before any major industry collapses, though...
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« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2017, 07:38PM »

If the scenario is the destruction of the mass-market, pre-sized, off-the-rack suit market at major retailers that are already floundering, then sure, I bet Amazon can flush them out to sea rather quickly. But there is a very large gap between pre-fab garments made from measurements and actual bespoke tailoring.
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« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2017, 07:49PM »

If the scenario is the destruction of the mass-market, pre-sized, off-the-rack suit market at major retailers that are already floundering, then sure, I bet Amazon can flush them out to sea rather quickly. But there is a very large gap between pre-fab garments made from measurements and actual bespoke tailoring.

What do you see as the gap?

I guess their advance is that they are not prefab. Nothing is made until the measurements come in and it's all driven by the measurements.

They are hinting about eventually being able to capture exact measurements from a camera, although I'm not sure I want pictures of me in my underwear floating around Amazon.

If they can robot all the sewing, they're going to have something.
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Robert Holmén

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« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2017, 07:57PM »

Thank you everyone. At a 50 XLong, my choices are slim. The local place here in Portland (Mr Formal Outlet) is out. Monkey Suits here I come!

I am a 60XL. Choices are less slim. But I had vents put in the back of the shoulders.
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« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2017, 08:09PM »

What do you see as the gap?

I guess their advance is that they are not prefab. Nothing is made until the measurements come in and it's all driven by the measurements.

They are hinting about eventually being able to capture exact measurements from a camera, although I'm not sure I want pictures of me in my underwear floating around Amazon.

If they can robot all the sewing, they're going to have something.

There are already many suit companies that make MTM suits from measurements you take yourself or have made at one of their store locations. Amazon has not invented a new concept with making suits based off of customer-supplied measurements. Hell, you can go get a made-to-measure suit at even the lowest end suit supplies (here's looking at you, Men's Wearhouse). The measurements are then turned into, or adapted from, a stock pattern and cut out in some central production center which handles the sewing and finishing. There are many people for whom MTM products are fine. They're already better than 90% of off-the-rack garments, and people are increasingly footing the slight increase in cost over a trip to Macy's for a decent suit.

The problem is fit and finish, total quality, prestige, all the numerous factors that keep the high end of any market going. Working with a tailor for a bespoke garment usually guarantees a level of finish and precise fitment that is unobtainable with the MTM process. That of course, is not true if you use a bad tailor!

MTM suits are not bad suits. They're like the Chinese-assembled Shires trombones of the suit world. No matter how well they are put together, there will still be people who insist that the quality is inferior, and bespoke suits (boutique trombones) will remain a safe haven of the wealthy, those who seek some manner of heritage in their wardrobe, and those who seek to appear to be either.

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« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2017, 08:11PM »

What do you see as the gap?

I guess their advance is that they are not prefab. Nothing is made until the measurements come in and it's all driven by the measurements.

They are hinting about eventually being able to capture exact measurements from a camera, although I'm not sure I want pictures of me in my underwear floating around Amazon.

If they can robot all the sewing, they're going to have something.

Based on the drawing, I see one problem.  It's inefficient in the use of material.  In the garment industry there was an individual called a "pattern maker" who would figure out the best way to cut parts of a garment with minimal waste but still having the "grain" of the fabric look proper.  Especially important when you are working with a stretchy knit.

It might be possible to automate the pattern making, but this is going to add some complexity to the program.  It needs to be able to understand the properties of the material as well as figuring where to place each part.
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« Reply #17 on: May 15, 2017, 10:37PM »

Quote
The problem is fit and finish, total quality, prestige, all the numerous factors that keep the high end of any market going.

I'll concede the "prestige" thing.

However,  to reap the benefit of your prestigious suit, you have to go around telling people who made your suit and how much you paid for it.  :D

I used to hang out with people like that. They had to tell me how much something cost or who made it (which would imply it was very expensive).  Yeah, RIGHT. 





It might be possible to automate the pattern making, but this is going to add some complexity to the program.  It needs to be able to understand the properties of the material as well as figuring where to place each part.

I'm sure that is well withing the development abilities of Amazon and their programmers. Those are all quantifiable parameters and even if there wasn't an algorithm to ascertain the best placement on the first try, you could plausibly instruct the computer to try 10,000 arrangements in a few seconds and use the best one.

I imagine something like Tetris, where you keep sliding new pieces in and rotating them for optimal fit.

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Robert Holmén

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« Reply #18 on: May 15, 2017, 11:00PM »

I'll concede the "prestige" thing.

However,  to reap the benefit of your prestigious suit, you have to go around telling people who made your suit and how much you paid for it.  :D

I used to hang out with people like that. They had to tell me how much something cost or who made it (which would imply it was very expensive).  Yeah, RIGHT. 


For better or worse that's a huge part of it. Why else would people buy ready-to-wear suits from Nordstrom at the exorbitant markup when the quality and longevity is no better than something from a less obnoxious store at a fraction of the price. Being seen in an outfit by Amazon won't score you many points in the fashion crowd, but Tom Ford sure will.

The current crop of made-to-measure makers have really put a dent in the lower end of the market, where they do most of their business, especially with the younger internet-savvy crowed. Creep up above that entry to mid-level price point and you're getting into the world of A) overpriced brands that live off of name alone, and B) bespoke products focused on exceptional quality. I don't see people paying bespoke prices for something that isn't, and the made-to-measure concept doesn't deliver bespoke quality at a price that isn't. Keep in mind the bespoke suit world is a place where people are seeking all manner of things hand made, hand stitched, hand cut, hand everything. It just doesn't mesh with the robotized Amazon dream.

Then of course, there's the huge market segment of people who just want to go to a store and grab a suit off a rack and be done with it. Made-to-measure also does nothing in this segment. Looking at you yet again, Mens Wearhouse!

Long story short, is made-to-measure revolutionizing a portion of the mens formal wear market? Absolutely. Is it a threat to bespoke tailoring? No. And unless you have money to throw down you're still stuck with a horribly made, horribly fitting suit either way!
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« Reply #19 on: May 19, 2017, 01:43PM »


... to reap the benefit of your prestigious suit, you have to go around telling people who made your suit and how much you paid for it.  :D

I used to hang out with people like that. They had to tell me how much something cost or who made it (which would imply it was very expensive).  Yeah, RIGHT. 


Rob,

I didn't know that you once hung with Donald Trump! 

Apparently you are no longer a fan of his?   
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