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Author Topic: How much to cut for a G-att?  (Read 559 times)
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« on: May 13, 2017, 08:10PM »

I have a project horn that I want to experiment on. 42BO wrap. I just want to know how much tubing to remove to make a G-att. I recall hearing that more than just the slide legs need to be cut it was also a bit of the receiving tubes that are too long. Sorry to make a post I just can't find the thread in which it was mentioned again.
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BGuttman
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« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2017, 08:16PM »

If you had a King F-attachment (2 tuning slides) you can easily make a G attachment by using the shorter loop between the two legs that go to the valve.  You may need to remove the main tuning slide brace to do this.

Measure the difference in slide length from 6th to 4th position.  Remember that the slide has two legs.  I believe the difference is around 6 inches (150 mm) in slide length, so you need to remove 12 inches (300 mm) from the total F-attachment tubing.  I don't think you can do this from just one side or using a special crook.
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Bruce Guttman
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« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2017, 08:25PM »

I never meshed well with King large bores, but I have thought that trick would be useful if I ever pick up a 3BF or 3B+F
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Larry Preston Roberson
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« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2017, 09:05PM »

I have a project horn that I want to experiment on...I just can't find the thread in which it was mentioned again.

I just came across it a few hours prior to your query while doing research.

http://tromboneforum.org/index.php/topic,3270.msg281271.html#msg281271


I had read about the G-attachment a while back and remembered after seeing an auction on eBay. I made a post about it:

http://tromboneforum.org/index.php/topic,99937.msg1193633.html#msg1193633

I hope this helps. I can never find a thread when I need it. I've started bookmarking more diligently as-of-late.

Have fun!
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« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2017, 09:53PM »

I got thinking about it again because of your post.

As an update for the project it's cut and it even plays in tune! Well at this temperature. I have to sand down the finish where the tubes didn't previously need to clear the tolerance for the f-att outer slide legs. It is very difficult to push/pull the slide the little bit it has room to be moved now. But I dig it. Definitely the few minutes of work and the much much longer time I spent looking for steel wool or sandpaper in the house.

I'll bring it along to a rehearsal on Monday
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« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2017, 08:39AM »

I never meshed well with King large bores, but I have thought that trick would be useful if I ever pick up a 3BF or 3B+F

3B's would require a lot of cutting, due to the narrowness of the bell section.

G attachments have intrigued me. Seems it would put more alternate positions in the middle of the slide.

A 4B works really well. Here's a link to Anthony Cecena's 4BF modification:

http://roweboat.com/fg4b/

Jerry Walker
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« Reply #6 on: Jul 19, 2017, 05:34PM »

Another update:

I've been using the G-att horn off and on and I do find it quite worth it. Not like my word is worth a lot as other much better musicians have made more than a good enough case to try a G-att but the fluidity of slide movements while using alternates made phrasing that much more natural ( after getting used to it ). I still think I would use it more as a section player than a lead player. And when I'm on bass I don't know if I'd find myself yearning for it even though I still like the idea of a dependent G/F valve set and an independent low D right behind that. Or F/D and G...

Aaaannnnyway

I would like to explore having a horn like this in my regular arsenal with a 36B or 3B+ or any good medium bore, but done by an actual technician  Good!
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« Reply #7 on: Jul 20, 2017, 06:22AM »

Hi :)

Just did this modification on my King a few weeks ago. It provides sooo much possibilities to play complex lines in the mid-low register, way more than with a regular F-wrap. As we can play the low Db in 2nd position + trigger, i never have to go further than the 4th position and i can play faster down there with better and easier phrasing.  Way cool

I used the same method to determine the lenght to cut off : measure the lenght between the 6th and 4th position. Worked perfectly, but this should be done only with the original slide, cause this lenght depends of the bore and slide, and will never be the same on other instruments :)

The valve itself adds a tiny bit lenght and flattens the overall tuning of the horn  ;-)

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